Lets talk about fashion and about the role of the traditional Ukrainian garment in shaping a major fashion trend this summer - boho embroidered dress. You may already have it in your wardrobe, be it a boho style blouse, embroidered dress or other piece of garb embellished with ethnic embroidery, there is one element that all these favourite pieces have in common - origins from the national Ukrainian costume, in particular the traditional patterned blouse known as “vyshyvanka”.
This summer the boho embroidered garment has risen to a couture level. Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015 runway in Paris was very much influenced by a traditional Ukrainian costume - embroidery elements, red-black-white ornaments, Vyshyvanka style blouse, traditional leather vest “keptar” and plaited hairstyle were present throughout the collection.
American Vogue released an article in April about the rise of Ukrainian national costume in fashion. It states: “Ukrainian traditional costume has knowingly and unknowingly permeated fashion for years, and now the spotlight on the country’s aesthetic is in full swing once again. Only this time, it’s hailing from the motherland.” It also touches on the recent political events in Ukraine and draws the connection between the perception of Ukraine globally and evoked Ukrainian fashion: “It’s worth considering whether the rise of Ukrainian traditional costume in fashion is more than just au courant street-style bait… There is a school of thought that the recent use of Ukrainian dress isn’t just a fashion statement, it’s a unifying statement.”
An influential figure worth mentioning, who played a key role in raising awareness about the Ukrainian dress in the fashion world, is Ukrainian designer Vita Kin. She has created her collection called “Vyshyvanka” and used Instagram to promote her label. Immediately her brand has attracted many celebrities and IT girls such as Anna Dello Russo, Asya Mkhitaryan, Leandra Medine and Mira Duma. Swimwear designer and stylist Lisa Marie Fernandez, who likes finding clothes off the beaten runway path, discovered the Vyshyvanka label and bought several designs in different colors. Ms Fernandez talks about Vita Kin frocks: “I’ve never in my life been stopped more than when I have these dresses on.” Fashion magazine Harpers Bazaar thinks that new designer Vita Kin introduces the Perfect Bohemia.
Kin herself says about her collection: “Ukrainians have a unique method of decorating clothing with embroidery, and that’s always impressed me. I adapted this ancient heritage into a modern context, adding a seventies vibe, when clothing was more relaxed and friendly. It’s a bohemian eccentricity in a very luxe execution.”
Do you wish to get the Vyshyvanka look after being inspired by the above references, but cannot afford designer`s tags? You can still shop the look - some high street stores currently offer folk dresses and ethnic embroidery, but for more authentic and traditional choice visit the Ukrainian Gift Shop where you will also find a range of vyshyvankas, waistcoats and accessories:
